![]() ![]() After some more practice with hugin defishing I think I’ve got some tricks I can use on the next capture attempt. It SEEMS like I got the lowest percentage of hue-shift discontinuities in the least-glare image, but I could be wrong. #Hugin defish how toI’m still trying to figure out how to get a decent D50 shot without glare - unfortunately this camera’s WiFi preview (the ONLY preview method) is pretty poor quality, so what looked like a non-glare scenario in preview had subtle glare once I copied the shots. Is that an indication I had too much specular glare? I think I need to reshoot my D50 shot, getting the ColorChecker to be a decent percentage of the frame without casting a shadow, when combined with shooting in winter at northern latitudes is proving quite difficult. Hue shift discontinuity between LUT entry neighbors are not allowed. The camera’s EXIF for lens data is pretty bogus which doesn’t help - I just have to guess at FOV, although at least for this particular purpose getting close is good enough. I see some small differences when changing settings, but overall, the image is extremely dark so it’s hard to do perspective correction. #Hugin defish manualUnfortunately it’s a major headache because Hugin’s 16-bit display assist functionality described in the manual doesn’t seem to work very well. It’s also something suggested in another post asking about RT and defishing (a long time ago, found via Google) Stopping down it will not win any sharpness awards, but it is quite usable for those odd occasions where I want a really wide view.So since I’ve primarily worked only with rectilinear lenses with hugin, it was a bit of a PITA to figure things out, but I think I have gotten things to work with a workflow similar to what suggests. I think I am going to have some great fun with this lens. It is funto play with the projections in Huginįor architecture I think that having,the camera perfectly level and vertical will improve the defished pictures. I do not like much the out of camera curvy fisheye look, but I like the results I get defishing the almost 180° view. Any CA's will be exaggerated when they are stretched. It is best to do any CA correction first before sending the files to Hugin. ![]() I got much better results with Hugin which seemed to preserve the edge definition much better. ![]() DXO did a nice job returning straight lines to be straight, but it destroyed what definition there was on the edges of the lens. Here are a few shots that I took in town. Hogan would not put it in his list of recommended lenses for high definition Nikon bodies! But well stopped right down to F11 it is not to bad. Wide open at 2.8 it is a dog zero definition. It is super lightweight compared to todays lenses. The quality of the construction is quite good, though the aperture ring is a difficult to shift. Setting the right focal length seemed to improve the shots too. Once, I remembered from my D300 days that I had to set the lens maximum aperture in the camera menu I managed to get it metering properly. ![]() How would it fare on my high resolution D800? Junk or lost gem? At €150, that old Sigma Filtermatatic 16mm fisheye at my local dealers was hard to resist. ![]()
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